We interviewed Thomas Stegmaier from DITF to learn more about the coating of textiles and its role in BioFibreLoop.
What is a coating? What is it used for in general? What are the applications in BioFibreLoop?
“Coating is a part of textile finishing. A coating layer on a textile substrate brings special functions into and onto a textile and therefore provides added value. Many technical textiles are coated in order to fulfil their special function. Such functions include, for example protection against liquids, gases, bacteria, but also protection of the textile itself against environmental influences and premature destruction. In our project we use the coating to repel water and oils, but also bacteria.”
How do you produce a coating in textile industry from obtaining the material to the finished coating?
“Coating is carried out with different processes: A water-based formulation is often used for thin and very thin coatings on fibres. However, this has to be dried in an energy-intensive manner. For slightly thicker coatings, coatings can be made with fusible materials. Drying is not necessary and saves a lot of energy. Both processes have advantages and disadvantages and have to be adapted to the textile and desired functions. In BioFibreLoop, we are using lignin in mixtures with cellulose as a melt product. The mixture is melted and applied to the carrier textile as a thin film.”
Which are the challenges of producing coatings in BioFibreLoop?
“The challenges lie in meeting the necessary durability requirements in the various targeted applications. For example in the case of protective textiles, a high number of washing cycles must be possible and therefore a high abrasion resistance. A particular scientific challenge is achieving water and oil repellency without the use of environmentally harmful perfluorocarbons which are usually used for oil-repellent functional textiles.
Here in BioFibreLoop, we are focusing on a bionic approach from living nature: special surface structures on fish and other living creatures show oil repellency. We want to understand these structures well in the project and transfer them to our technical coatings via an embossing process on the lignin-cellulose coatings.”
What are benefits of the lignin coating developed in BioFibreLoop compared to commercially available comparable coatings for textiles?
“The coated textiles in our project will all be biodegradable. This means that they will no longer contribute to the major environmental problem in our waters caused by microplastics. Despite the biodegradability, we are working on making the textiles so robust that recycling the materials is possible and economically sensible. In this way, we meet several of the requirements of the new EU regulation in the frame of the “Green Deal”, which will soon make textile production much more sustainable.”
Please give a vision. How will BioFibreLoop’s innovations regarding the coating affect the textile industry of tomorrow?
“The new lignin-based coatings make it possible to produce a textile material without petrochemical polymers altogether. Lignin is a highly abundant material, as it originates from wood growing in large quantities in Europe. It is widely available as a byproduct of the paper production process. At the same time, this biopolymer is very robust, so that in future numerous technical applications are possible in addition to clothing.
Furthermore, environmentally harmful polymers, which have previously been required to achieve water and oil repellency, can be dispensed with.
If developments in this project are successful, there will be many opportunities in the textile industry to develop products that are made entirely from renewable raw materials, are recyclable and ultimately completely biodegradable.”
Film for lamination onto the textile made from a lignin-cellulose mixture. ©DITF
Thomas Stegmaier. ©DITF
Who are you and what is your role in the project?
“Since my studies, I have been working in textile research with a focus on technical textiles. In my doctoral thesis, I analysed the coating of yarns. The search for ideas from living nature and the transfer of highly exciting principles to our technical world has enriched many research projects I could initiate. I am also involved in national and international networks on bionics and biomimetics.
In BioFibreLoop I am in charge as Technical Coordinator. This includes organising discussions among the partners in material and process development, making decisions about next steps, developing new techniques and also presenting the project.”
What has been/will be your personal highlight in the project?
“I am fascinated by the many opportunities and skills of the partners that we can use as a consortium in the project. The skills and work cover the entire textile production: spinning new fibres, producing fabrics from them, development of new coating systems, new cutting-edge functionalisation, digitisation, new recycling technologies and proof of biodegradability.”
Can you share any funny or unexpected moments or learnings that you experienced while your worked on this project?
“The kick-off meeting took place in the aftermath of Corona. It was simply good to exchange ideas with the new partners in the evening in a nice restaurant, to discuss professional as well as private matters and to hatch new ideas. Online meetings simply cannot replace this kind of communication.”
What type of BioFibreLoop clothing (active wear, outdoor wear, work wear) are you personally most excited about?
“I am already looking forward to testing new protective clothing made entirely from the biopolymer lignin: the textile itself as well as the highly functional coating will be made from this renewable raw material from wood. It’s just good to know that everything will ultimately be biodegraded if only some of it ends up in the environment.”
Project Coordinator
Thomas Fischer,
Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF)
thomas.fischer@ditf.de
Technical Coordinator
Thomas Stegmaier,
Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF)
thomas.stegmaier@ditf.de
Funded by the European Union Horizon Europe Research and Innovation Program under Grant Agreement No. 101130603. Views and opinions expressed are however those of the author(s) only and do not necessarily reflect those of the European Union or the European Health and Digital Executive Agency (HADEA). Neither the European Union nor HADEA can be held responsible for them.